Chogolisa Peak Expedition

Overview

Chogolisa (or Bride Peak) has several peaks; the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa I) rises to 7,665 metres. The second highest at 7,654 meters on the NE side (Chogolisa II) is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892. In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498m from a base camp located on the northern side. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further.

Herman Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted this peak first time in 1957 just two weeks after the successful climb of Broad Peak. They called off their attempt at 7100 meters due to bad weather and on the way back the conqueror of Nanga Parbat, Herman Buhl, lost his life. Chogolisa was finally climbed by a 13 man Japanese party led by Hiroaki Akiyama on its NW ridge. On July 14th Misuo Yajima, Sanji Kabayashi, Testsuo Nakamura and Shoichi Yasuji climbed to the top. Japan also made the first successful North East summit on August 4, 1958.